Friday, 25 June 2021

Ardgour to Skye

The drive to Skye is about 95 miles and should take us about 2 1/2 hours.  Unfortunately the weather on Skye in the afternoon is due to be pretty rough.

We gave ourselves a little lie in this morning but were still down for breakfast before 0800.  I asked if chef could cook me fried yolks again but apparently it was a different one on today.  We had a bit of banter with Luke about the new chef having to be as good - in fact his eggs were considerably better.

We packed the car and instead of getting the ferry we headed up the west side of Loch Linnhe, a long, slow, winding drive which was very enjoyable except for when a group of cars rallying came at us out of nowhere.  Luckily there was a passing place but, as when we met a group in Wales last year, they stop for no one.  Rather stupid really considering the number of sheep wandering around on these quiet roads.

Just before 0900 we came upon this beautiful scene; mare, foal, (maybe) sire, a stone barn, distant hills and a loch - what more could you ask for.  


The mare had a very kind eye.



This was (presumably) Dad having a good scratch against the tree.


The foal was naturally wary of us.

Eventually curiosity got the better of her and she just couldn't resist coming closer for a good look at us whilst Mum watched on.  After a while she even let me scratch her neck.

Half an hour and 200+ photos later (I kid you not), we were back on the road again.

As the weather this morning was still fairly good - deteriorating rapidly in the early afternoon - we decided to go back to the Commando Memorial at Spean Bridge and do the walk we'd planned to do on the drive from the airport.

The view of the Nevis Range was marginally better today.

At least I think this is Ben Nevis.

And the memorial had less people around it. 

Just as we were walking up to it, the annoying little old campervan from yesterday drove into the car park.  I then got talking to the woman passenger who was from the Wirral and once she started talking OMG she  just couldn't stop - annoying on two counts!

It was a gentle stroll on a well marked path, not a great deal to see but a pleasant 1 1/2 hour walk in heathland and woodland through Glen Spean, with good views of the mountains and very few other people around.  We could apparently see deer, otters, pine martens and numerous other species.




Once again, the lichens and mosses were very attractive.

The route includes a section of Wade’s military road with its historic High Bridge (built in 1736 over the River Spean), as well as part of the disused railway line between Invergarry and Fort Augustus with its viaduct.   Unfortunately, both the bridge and viaduct are now in ruins. The triple arched High Bridge was over 20 metres high and 85 metres long and linked the garrisons of Inverness, Fort Augustus and Fort William.  The bridge is associated with the first shots being fired in the 1745 Uprising in support of Bonnie Prince Charlie.  The Battle of the High Bridge is where MacDonell of Tirnadris ambushed and routed two companies of the Royal Scots.  Following on from this victory, the Prince raised his standard a few days later at Glenfinnan.  However, within less than 100 years, the bridge was in dilapidated state, with a cast-iron footbridge being precariously slung across the old bridge on stanchions in 1894 as part of a repair work.  The viaduct was constructed circa 1930 as part of the railway line running for 38km between Spean Bridge to Fort Augustus.   The original 4 span lattice girder viaduct was supported by 23 metre high concrete piers.




A small flock of sheep was the only animals we saw.


Green jumper anyone?

We met a very pleasant lady walking her dog and it turns out the footpath has been built on her land (farm) and she was interested to know how we heard of it.  It was apparently funded by a Dr Alan Reece, an engineer and keen walker/climber from Tyneside (looked him up - died 2012 wealthy businessman and philanthropist too).  She also recommended Avon Skin So Soft as a midge repellent and told us we could get it in Speak Bridge Village.  Ian commented that we hadn't seen any pine marten and Mrs Farmer told us about the ones she gets in her garden which attack her cats - I almost asked if we could go to her garden and have a look.

The last section of the walk was uphill and then alongside the busy A82 which wasn't very pleasant but as we were leaving the woods we did catch a glimpse of a roe deer and her calf.  Just as we were nearing the car park the rain started so we did well.  Into Spean Bridge village to buy the repellent and although the local Spar didn't have any they suggested we try the nearby cafe and we got a bottle there.

From there we drove straight to Skye making only one stop to have a look at Eilean Donan Castle.


Situated on the confluence of 3 lochs this is probably one of the most photographed castles in the UK (certainly it crops up with boring regularity at camera clubs).  There were a lot of people around and the weather was dull and raining so we plan to come back another day but we drove up into the village of Dornie to get a different viewpoint.



We arrived at the Skye town of Broadford about 1700 and easily found the Hotel Dunollie; it had a small car park at road level (full) and another, larger one, down a steep slope at sea level (1 space left) and with a lot of wiggling around I managed to get our car parked but we then had to lug the cases back up the hill to reception.  I don't have high expectations of this place as it's only costing us £70 per night including breakfast but the (I guess) Thai girl on reception was very pleasant and was expecting us so a good start.  Our room is on the first floor, basic but clean and the bonus is that it overlooks the little harbour which I'm very pleased about as I'd been expecting the usual view - brick wall or car park.  Our view and no textures added (just the dirty and wet window).




Included in the deal was a £30 food voucher so we dined in the restaurant which although huge had only a few usable tables.  The food was fine, nothing special but perfectly edible and the staff very sweet and helpful.

Given the weather outside we decided an early night would suit us both.